Adventures of a girl from a BIG cold city in a small tropical village

Saturday, November 26, 2011

PG Life

Life is definitely different here in Punta Gorda; it's a small town (less than 6000 people in the greater area) in a small country (less 300 000 people), everybody knows everybody. English is the official language but when people from PG speak to each other they mostly speak in Creole, which almost sounds like English until you realize you haven't understood anything.
Life is slower here. The sun comes up at 6 and sets at 6, which sets the tone for how the day. At 6 the rooster start crowing, the birds squawking and people moving. The sun falls in and out of the sky; it's dark and then its light; its light and then its dark.

Wished I would have seen this sunrise

PG looks like people just started showing up beside the ocean and building houses, throwing together shacks, laying foundations, and in not finishing half of it.
There doesn't seem to be a rush of things to do here, maybe because I have only been here for 5 days and don't have a lot of work to do yet, but the working day goes like this: Show up at 8 take an hour or an hour and a half at lunch then go back until 5.



Some of the partially built houses left to get moldy
 There doesn't seem to be a rush of things to do here, maybe because I have only been here for 5 days and don't have a lot of work to do yet, but the working day goes like this: Show up at 8 take an hour or an hour and a half at lunch then go back until 5.


Down by the water, the shore is just covered in beach glass, rocks and garbage

Most the fresh fruit and veg come from the market, where villagers take the bus or drive in to sell their product. The big market days are Wednesday and Saturday. Front Street (the one right along the water) get crowed with people, fruit stands, buses dropping off and picking up, and the dogs that seems to roam around the whole country.
Like any small town it is filled with a large cast of characters. I've been getting to know all the ex-pats living down here. Rick and Darla are from Idaho and own the beautiful Coral House Inn, Gomier is from St. Lucia and has a fantastic vegetarian and seafood restaurant and the edge of town and a rasta hat that is so full of dreadlocks (he told me about the time he went cross country skiing in Banff, I would have loved to see that), Mark is the President of Plenty Belize and real local force, he moved here 10 years ago and decided to stay. People coming here and deciding to stay seems like a pretty common theme among many. Jill who run the library moved here two years ago to retire to something different after living in NYCs east village for 25 years, Jack was a modern dancer who travelled all over the world with the best companies decided to stay 30 years ago and is very involved with much of the community work.
I was out shopping with Genalee (i have no idea how to spell), one of the local girls who works for Plenty,  to get a few things I needed to go to Graham Creek, and she summed up what shopping in PG is like "Most you have to go into every store because you never know if what you want will be there". There doesn't seem to be much theme to what the stores sell and you cannot tell at all from the outside.
Genalee and I were talking and she asked me what it was like to go on a train, there are no trains in Belize, only school buses and little hopper planes take you around the country. As Genalee describes it "Everybody knows your business here, if I was walking around with a boy right now by the time I got home my father be asking me which boy I was with".
I am enjoying it all right now, but I can say life here is nothing like life back home.


Mariel

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Day One, Done.

"If you feel the need to escape the law, elude creditors, hide assets, or shed the skin of your humdrum life, you could do worse than to run away to Belize. Belize is a tiny nation tucked between Guatemala, Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. It's firmly attached to Central America but considers itself a Caribbean Island, like a chicken that thinks its a duck. ... Imagine a country the size of Massachusetts with the population of Corpus Christi, Texas. Give it an army of 700 soldiers and a seat in the UN and you start to get an idea of Belize. ...The country teems with adventurous refugees who've set up shop in the middle of the Central America jungle. British innkeepers, Mennonite farmers, Chinese shopkeepers, Lebanese entrepreneurs, American missionaries, Canadian aid workers and Dutch scientists live peacefully along side the nation's longer established residents, the Garifuna artists, Maya cacao growers, Mestizo plantation managers, and the Creole politicians who make up the majority of the country's population. Belize draws the eccentric, the madcap and the downright mad."
-Bruce Barcott,
Let's start at the top...
I made it here without a hitch. Ottawa->Newark->Houston->Belize City, all easy connections the only thing that went wrong was a spilled a diet pepsi when cashing out at panda express for a quick lunch in Houston, but the Cashier gave me a new one. I cut a few lines at customs to catch a 4:40 Tropic Air flight to Punta Gorda after landing at 3:40. The airport looked more like a Bus Station than an international airport, which was apparent in the lax security to go through to catch my local flight, although I still have to take off my shoes and have an empty water bottle.
The flight to PG was more like a van with wings (as the American woman sitting next to me described it), but was very smooth. we made stops in Dangriga and Placencia before arriving in PG. Gary, Jan and Mark, who is the head of Plenty, pick me up at the "airport" in Mark's car. We got back to Jan and Gary's which is right on the ocean in a guest house called Blue Belize. Had a few Belikins and Jan made a delicious supper (which of course included rice and beans, not to be confused with beans and rice). We chatted about lots of things and I tried to get a sense of what the culture is like what I would be doing, etc.
(PG at night)

I unpakced, showered and crashed in bed to the sounds of the calm ocean, bugs and the occasional gecko squeek (they climbed the walls in the house and eat bugs, so we like them. They are also so cute)
I woke up at 6:30 to the sound of the pouring rain, which seemed like the hardest rain we would ever get in Ottawa or Boston, but Jan and Gary said it can rain a lot harder on some day. The rain only lasted a short while and then we headed to the Plenty office for 8; it's only a two minute bike ride from Blue Belize (although I get the sense nothing is more than a 15 minute bike ride). Every one was doing there own this to start, I was introduced to everyone but only remembered half of their names. There were probably 8-10 people in and out of the office today (not counting the cute children who filled up their water bottle from the water cooler in their little green school uniforms). I did some of my own research while everyone was busy on the WHO recommendations on sanitation practices, which they want me to teach in one of the rural villages.
Then Mark took me to the hospital (also just around the corner from the Plenty office) to see if the Public health minister was in to meet and see what work I could do with him. The hospital didn't look like a hospital at all it was a two story turquoise building that looked rickety and was very open to the outdoors. We tried to meet with Lyle the minister of Public Health for the Toledo District he was busy and I was to go back and meet him at one.
The Polyclinic at the Hospital, the nicest part of the building
(the colour is pretty fantastic though)
After a quick lunch back at home I went back to the Hospital to meet with Lyle. He was very excited to work with me and had lots of places he wanted to have me work. It was very exciting to have the Public Health official for the whole district excited to have me work with him. They wanted me to help out a lot in the sanitation, food and water safety. Which will include water testing, food safety raining in the food establishment and in the school kitchens as well as food safety training for the kitchens in conjunction with the work Plenty does with school feed programs. I went back to the plenty office but since it was still lunch timeish the office was almost empty and there wasn't anything specific for me to do, I biked into town to get Belizian money out from the Scotiabank that is right in town (nice not to have to change banks).
I went back home since Jan would be there (she works with one of the school feed programs here in the mornings) ran into Isabelle who is from Montreal and works at the BLue Belize office but is also a marine biologist here. She said she would take me out and introduce me to all the foreigners who are here. I ended up taking a nice long nap for the afternoon which was much needed after a long day of travel, adjusting to the heat and humidity and trying to take in all of my new surrounding.
After I woke up, Jan and I sat out on the veranda in the ocean breeze and drank a coffee before heading back into town to go to the market and get some more beers delivered to the house.
The streets (only the main ones are paved) were scattered with dogs and kittens, kids on bikes, pedestrians, motor cycles and cars. All the shops look like those over packed shops you would see in Chinatown; everything has a little dust on it and you wonder who would buy half of it.
We picked up some bread from just this little shack of a house with the cutest puppy sitting out side, of course I couldn't resist petting and then it tried to follow me home.
It gets dark pretty much right at six here, and the sunsets are short, but we sat outside on the veranda as the sun disappeared drank so Belikins and had some cassava chips while dinner was cooking and talk more about the local culture and the day.
I won't need to write down every detail of everyday like this as time goes on but its just so much I am taking in right now. I am very excited about the work I will be doing here and I am sure I will be learning a lot. I am meeting with Hannah one of the Peace Corps girls here to talk about teaching sanitation practices to a small rural village called Graham Creek that Plenty helped install a village well recently. I will be going to the village, which is a six mile trek through the jungle from the nearest road, on Sunday for two nights. More details to come.

Good night all.
Boom!

Monday, November 21, 2011

Up in the Air

This summer when I was traveling I always felt the urge to write when I was in transit. Some of my best journal entries were written on the greyhound or in the air. Maybe it's because I my iPod is filled with way to much emotional music that makes me question my own emotions or maybe it's just for a lack of better things to do and I am sick of playing solitaire or angry birds. Whatever it is I like the time to reflect and process my life and emotions. I am about to touch down in Newark then off to Houston then Belize City before catching a quick flight to Punta Gorda. Lots of thinking and journalling time before I land, if I figure out anything profound I'll let you know.
Ready for some warm weather although I don't want to take off my tuque.

Boom!
(written on the flight from Ottawa to Newark)

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Leaving

It's come up so quickly, I am leaving on Monday, it seems like just yesterday I was asking Gary and Jan at my graduation party if I could go with them down to Belize. Now its almost been 6 months since graduation; I left Boston, returned and left again, I have traveled North America, had the pleasure of working and getting to know the Escher family, written the GRE, almost applied to Grad school, and now the time has come for a new adventure.
I have been seeking adventure since I was 11 and I came home and told my Mom that I needed to do CISV. That summer I was off to a "village" (what CISV calls their program for 11 year olds) Germany for a month with other 11 year old from all over the world; an experience that would change me forever. It further cemented my idea that we are all equals despite exterior differences. The idea of equality was always obvious to me because of the variety of characters that shaped my childhood in downtown Toronto.
Despite not having the opportunity to study abroad in college because of a fierce dedication to rowing, I knew that after graduation I needed to have some international experience to help me decide my career path. I know that I want to study Epidemiology but I am not yet sure whether I want to focus my career on western health or global health.
My International Health Professor, Susan Foster, was further inspiration to go do some volunteer work abroad. In her video taking about her experience in the peace corps she talks about needing to have experience on the ground if you hope to work in "Geneva" and I really felt she made a valid point.



So here I am almost ready to leave. It's scary, exciting, thrilling, nerve racking, and everything in between. I am lucky that I will have my family there, Gary and Jan are like second parents to me, I have even lived at their house a few times.
I better go get packing (pictures to come).
I definitely have Plenty to Belize in right now.
Much Love
Boom!